There are a few telltale signs to look for when buying jewellery that should help you avoid disappointment later.
Are the findings the appropriate size and weight for the piece of jewellery? The findings are connectors (earrings, pin back, clasps, etc.) If they look too thin, assume they are and that someone was trying to save money on materials. Does the clasp function easily and hold the jewellery on? It should! A handmade clasp is often a sign of attention to detail and should not be overlooked just because it is in the back. But be sure that it works.
How is the metal finished? Can you see scratches that are deeper in some areas than others? If the answer is yes, the piece should go back to the emery or polishing stage. Different finishes are acceptable, but consistency is an important distinction.
Are there purplish cloudy areas in the sterling silver? That is probably not just tarnish, but something called firescale. Firescale is a growth in the metal from overheating. In most cases it can be removed, but it does take skill and practice to do this efficiently. Check with the maker to find out if removal is possible.
Are solder seams complete? There should be no pits or sections in a seam that are not filled with solder. Incomplete solder seams are weaker than full seams and create small crevices which catch debris and can be difficult to clean.
’20 Tips on maintaining our Jewellery’, Gillian E. Batcher, 2013
