Dear Sunday readers,
Many years ago, I found this book, ART DECO JEWELRY by
SYLVIE RAULET in an old book store in Montreal.
SYLVIE RAULET in an old book store in Montreal.
The book provides essentials to anyone interested in the ART
DECO period or in superb examples of the jeweler’s art.
DECO period or in superb examples of the jeweler’s art.
As the author’s says “A piece of jewellery is the symbolic
object par excellence, appreciated as
much for its aesthetic qualities as for its intrinsic value”
object par excellence, appreciated as
much for its aesthetic qualities as for its intrinsic value”
Art Deco was a pastiche of
many different styles, sometimes contradictory, united by a desire to be
modern. From its outset, Art Deco was influenced by the bold geometric forms of Cubism;
the bright colors of Fauvism and of the Ballets Russes; and the updated craftsmanship of the
furniture of the eras of Louis Philippe and Louis XVI; by the exotic styles of China and Japan, India, Persia, ancient Egypt and Maya art.
It featured rare and expensive materials such as ebony and ivory and exquisite
craftsmanship. (Wikipedia)
many different styles, sometimes contradictory, united by a desire to be
modern. From its outset, Art Deco was influenced by the bold geometric forms of Cubism;
the bright colors of Fauvism and of the Ballets Russes; and the updated craftsmanship of the
furniture of the eras of Louis Philippe and Louis XVI; by the exotic styles of China and Japan, India, Persia, ancient Egypt and Maya art.
It featured rare and expensive materials such as ebony and ivory and exquisite
craftsmanship. (Wikipedia)
Ones of the many masters of
ART DECO are, GEORGES FOUQUET, LOUIS CARTIER, LOUIS ARPLES, RAYMOND TEMPLIER,
JEAN FOUQUET, and French houses of jewellery like BOUCHEROND and LALIQUE.
ART DECO are, GEORGES FOUQUET, LOUIS CARTIER, LOUIS ARPLES, RAYMOND TEMPLIER,
JEAN FOUQUET, and French houses of jewellery like BOUCHEROND and LALIQUE.
Many of the creations of the
Haute Joaillerie remain unidentified,
like the one we can appreciate in this photo.
Haute Joaillerie remain unidentified,
like the one we can appreciate in this photo.
Anonymous: diamond bracelet with ruby
cabochons, mounted on platinum. Sotheby’s
Geneva
cabochons, mounted on platinum. Sotheby’s
Geneva
This Boucheron’s brooch in sculpted lapis,
jade, black enamel and engraved citrine, c 1925, signed. Primavera Gallery, New
York, it’s one of the great pieces from the French jewellery house in Paris.
jade, black enamel and engraved citrine, c 1925, signed. Primavera Gallery, New
York, it’s one of the great pieces from the French jewellery house in Paris.
The
name Lalique evokes the brilliance of jewellery, the wonder of transparency,
and the brilliance of crystal. Before it became a brand name, it was the name
of a man, an artist of genius, René-Jules Lalique and of his heirs who shared
his creative flame.
name Lalique evokes the brilliance of jewellery, the wonder of transparency,
and the brilliance of crystal. Before it became a brand name, it was the name
of a man, an artist of genius, René-Jules Lalique and of his heirs who shared
his creative flame.
Lalique necklace
in glass and gold. Scarabs composed of moulded blue glass plaques alternate
with plaques bearing a design of branches, mounted in gold, c 1925. Sotheby’s
Monte Carlo
in glass and gold. Scarabs composed of moulded blue glass plaques alternate
with plaques bearing a design of branches, mounted in gold, c 1925. Sotheby’s
Monte Carlo
The most important steps in
Cartier’s family business were made over several generations by the goldsmith
Louis Francois Cartier, his son Alfred
Cartier, and his three grandsons, Pierre, Jacque and Louis Cartier.
Cartier’s family business were made over several generations by the goldsmith
Louis Francois Cartier, his son Alfred
Cartier, and his three grandsons, Pierre, Jacque and Louis Cartier.
Throughout the First World
War Cartier continued to produce inventive and original designs. Cartier
introduced many innovations into the jewellery market. Primarily known for their
work with diamonds, the firm designed lavish pieces, often incorporating other
stones in new and unusual settings for contrast and colour.
War Cartier continued to produce inventive and original designs. Cartier
introduced many innovations into the jewellery market. Primarily known for their
work with diamonds, the firm designed lavish pieces, often incorporating other
stones in new and unusual settings for contrast and colour.
These three pieces of incredible jewellery,
show the magic and incredible work of Cartier’s family.
show the magic and incredible work of Cartier’s family.
Cartier: pendant watch in onyx, round
diamonds, turquoise and black enamel. Christie’s Geneva.
diamonds, turquoise and black enamel. Christie’s Geneva.
Cartier: sautoir and tassel pendant in
jade, pearls and black onyx, signed. Christie’s Genova.
jade, pearls and black onyx, signed. Christie’s Genova.
Cartier: diamond and ruby necklace,
mounted on platinum, signed. Christie’s New York.
mounted on platinum, signed. Christie’s New York.
French jewelry manufacturer
GEORGES FOUQUET, considered both master of Art Nouveau and master jeweler in
Paris, he joined his father in the family business in 1891 and opens in 1900 a new Bijouterie Fouquet at 6 rue Royale in Paris.
GEORGES FOUQUET, considered both master of Art Nouveau and master jeweler in
Paris, he joined his father in the family business in 1891 and opens in 1900 a new Bijouterie Fouquet at 6 rue Royale in Paris.
There are so many master
pieces from Georges Fouquet but one of the greatest pieces are these pendant
earrings in moonstone, sapphires, diamonds, and blue enamel, c 1925. Private
Collection.
pieces from Georges Fouquet but one of the greatest pieces are these pendant
earrings in moonstone, sapphires, diamonds, and blue enamel, c 1925. Private
Collection.
Another incredible piece from the master is this pendant in grey
gold, black lacquer, and brilliant-cut diamonds, blackened silver cord, signed.
H. 10 cm, W. 5 cm.
N. Manoukian Collection.
gold, black lacquer, and brilliant-cut diamonds, blackened silver cord, signed.
H. 10 cm, W. 5 cm.
N. Manoukian Collection.
I can’t stop myself showing his incredible
original pieces, Monsieur Fouquet is one of the greatest master of Art Deco!
original pieces, Monsieur Fouquet is one of the greatest master of Art Deco!
This pendant designed by Andre Leveille in
frosted crystal set with onyx and calibre coloured stones, 1925. Private
Collection, it’s Fouquet at his best!
frosted crystal set with onyx and calibre coloured stones, 1925. Private
Collection, it’s Fouquet at his best!
I can keep going for ever in the
incredible work and master ship of the great masters of Art deco, but before I
leave you today I must showcase a piece from Raymond Templier, platinum and
diamond brooch, 1930, signed. L. 4.6 cm, W. 3.7 cm. Private Collection
incredible work and master ship of the great masters of Art deco, but before I
leave you today I must showcase a piece from Raymond Templier, platinum and
diamond brooch, 1930, signed. L. 4.6 cm, W. 3.7 cm. Private Collection
And the one and only Van Cleef & Arpels,
vanity case in gold and mauve jade with floral motifs in rubies, emeralds and
rose-cut diamonds, edged with green and black enamel, 1926. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.
vanity case in gold and mauve jade with floral motifs in rubies, emeralds and
rose-cut diamonds, edged with green and black enamel, 1926. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.
I hope you enjoy our trip through ART DECO
today as much as I did.
today as much as I did.
Have a nice Sunday!
Helena
