What type of clasp should my necklace have?

Chapter 3 – What type of clasp should my necklace have?

There are many types of clasps and not all of them are created equally. Spring rings are the most used clasp in commercial jewellery, and the cheapest clasp with the highest rate of breakage.

If you want to upgrade a chain without buying a new one, have a jeweller change your   spring ring to a lobster clasp. It operates in a similar way but is just a little heftier and more reliable for keeping your clasp safely attached.

Toggle clasps are often used as accents in the design of a piece and are strong provided they have the correct proportions.

At toggle clasp is most commonly a ring with a bar that goes through it but they can be other shapes as well.

The bar must be at least two times the inside diameter of the circle they are pushed through. For non -geometric shapes take the longest diameter of the space and multiply it by two for the length of the bar. There must be some weight to the chain for this clasp to work as it is held in place by both sides of the chain pulling away from each other.

Magnetic clasps can be perfect for people who have a hard time manipulating regular clasps. They have rare earth magnets inside, which are stronger than regular magnets. Beware they can interfere with things like pacemakers and hearing aids, if you have either of these you must check with your doctor before wearing them.

’20 Tips on maintaining our Jewellery’, Gillian E. Batcher, 2013

Do your settings need repair?

Over time settings can wear away. Rubbing occurs with normal wear and if you are not careful you can lose a stone when a claw setting has worn thin or completely worn off.

If you have expensive stones or lots of little stones you need to pay attention to your settings.

The first thing you can do is learn to hear a loose stone by tapping the stone with your nail and listening for clicking or jingling sounds. If the stone is loose you will be able to hear it move when you tap it.

This is a good first line of defense for checking your stones and their settings.

Next, look at the metal holding the stones in place in your jewellery. If it is a claw setting look at the balls on top of the claws holding the stone. There should be at lease .5mm thickness of metal on each claw. If the claws look completely flat or if the ball is missing, it needs to be re-tipped.

If your stone is set in a bezel, (a rim of metal around the top of the stone) look for racks in the metal around the stone. A bezel setting is the strongest setting and will show less wear than other types of settings.

Finally, make sure all your settings are fully touching your stones and have no sharp edges. A good rule is the nylon test. Run a nylon stocking across the setting and if it snags anywhere, it needs some work by your local goldsmith.

’20 Tips on maintaining our Jewellery’, Gillian E. Batcher, 2013

Have it your way…

I love watching custom design reality shows. I like watching the team pull various talents together, the resourcefulness, and I like to watch an idea become reality. But, I really, really, like the look into what it’s like to pull thoughts from a client’s mind, to shape those thoughts with hints of what they enjoy, to fuse everything with what will actually work, and, hopefully, create something fantastic. This is really what custom is supposed to be about – adventure. Like most adventures you embark on with a stranger, the first custom project with a new client or artist is exciting, full of possibilities and hidden expectations.

Once we are in general agreement about a concept, and I have an idea of the preferred budget, it’s time to lay out some sketches for approval. These are like mapped out suggestions for where we should go, and what we should do. The thing to remember here, is that the budget and preferred timeline are like mileage. You can go clear across Canada with enough time and money, but if it needs to be done quickly and you only have so much gas, you may have to adjust your plans to a really fun day trip.

When the design is set and the deposit has been paid, it’s time to relax. I mean it, relax! Especially if you are the client. Designers/Makers may check in if an issue pops up, or an opportunity to improve the piece, but generally, this is a waiting game until the piece get its finishing touches.

Eventually, we get to the big reveal – the breathtaking view. It is my aim for you to be blown away, where you cannot wait to tell the story of your wonderful journey to your beautiful piece. That is the goal of any custom goldsmith anywhere.

What would you like to have made?

WHAT DO YOU SEE??!

Happy Shop Saturday all!
It’s kind of a dreary wet day out there, which is kind of too bad, but also kind of perfect for staying inside, reading blogs, and thinking about future jewellery purchases😉
Today I would like to introduce you to the Rorschach line of jewellery, designed and handcrafted by Micheline Roi of Atelier J. Inspired by – surprise! – the famous Rorschach inkblot tests, this line includes brooches and earrings at a variety of pricepoints.

The lasercut brooches are $30 apiece, in either mirrored acrylic or baltic birch.

 These earrings are copper, and then plated with a black nano-ceramic coating. Save on the small pair at $65, or splurge just a bit more on the large pair at $95.

 The small sterling pair are $75, and the large pair are $125.

 These are gold-plated sterling silver. The small pair are $80, and the large pair are $150.

A Rorschach collage.

Personally, I would be interested in seeing these earrings in 14k yellow gold because, well, gold. If that is also your choice, good for you and your great taste, get in touch for pricing!

SHOP SATURDAY – IN THE BOX

Hello friends!
It’s shop saturday again, so it’s time for another edition of save or splurge. This one is one features work by Judith Noldin, a resident goldsmith here at Jewel Envy.
The box is a pretty fabulous splurge – the top and bottom are domed, textured copper, and the rims and hinge are a perfectly contrasting sterling. This is a $420 splurge.
Inside, for your saving pleasure, is a sterling silver lapel pin. It’s a bumblebee, because save the bees, literally! This baby will set you back $80.
Judith has more pieces in her bee collection, and she also has another box (this one is completely sterling silver) on display. I highly recommend you come in to take a look yourself:)
Enjoy your weekend everybody!

Special Event Sunday!

                                     
                                                       Special Event Sunday


 Our window displays are constantly evolving, they are currently showcasing a variety of work by goldsmith Alexis Kustok. 

                                                            She and Him 
                                     
The fist display features two pendants, both a male and female silhouette. The pendants themselves are made from copper with coloured flocking, hung from a sterling silver chain.

*These pendants are also available in alternative colours and sizes upon request.

                                                                        R.E.M

                                                                    

In this display we see hand carved initial pendants in both bold and cursive fonts. The pendants themselves are made from sterling silver and hung from a sterling silver chain.

* Also available in alternative metals, sizes, fonts, and letters for customization

                                                              Dora Loves Doughnuts

                                         

The final display features a sterling silver shark pendent with diamond set eyes, accompanied by a sterling silver chain.

* Also available as earring or cufflinks with the option of alternative gems, or without.

 Come by the big blue house and find out how you can make one of these beautiful pieces unique to you!

SAVE OR SPLURGE – BELLE OF THE BALLS

Happy Shop Saturday all!
Today I want to introduce you to the Balls (to the wall!) stacking collection by Pash Jewellery Design, by Gillian Batcher. Each piece is sold individually, and there are more than a few ways to customize these ballsy beauties to make your stack as lovely and original as you.
In the image above, there are the rings in various metals and karats, with different stones as accents. And don’t forget about the pendant! Sterling silver, vermeil (which is gold-plated sterling), 10k rose gold, 14k palladium white gold, sterling silver with pave diamonds on one ball, 10k rose gold with pave sapphires on one ball, etc… The pricing ranges from $195 all the way up to $750. You can splurge on everything all at once, or build this collection one piece at a time. 
And if that wasn’t enough to think about, I will also invite you to close your eyes, and imagine other custom options… Personally, I would choose a stack of three rings – 14k yellow gold with pave diamonds on every ball, 14k rose gold with black pave diamonds on every ball, and then finally 14k palladium white gold with pave emeralds. Or maybe sapphires?

It’s so hard to decide! Drop by the studio this weekend and try a few on for yourself, we’re always open Saturdays and Sundays. See you soon!

SAVE OR SPLURGE Y’ALL!

Happy weekend everyone! It’s a beautiful sunny day, so I hope you are out and about and enjoying yourself! If you feel like treating yourself to the sunshine and some jewellery, I have a few suggestions😊 It’s save vs splurge saturday of course, so you can treat yourself a little, or you can treat yourself a lot.
These amaaaaazing druzy rings are by Alexis Kostuk of Glaciale Goldsmith. Druzy is a fine coating of crystals on the surface of a gemstone – in this case it’s quartz druzy.
First up is this little gem. Simple and classic, but with some sweet detail around the stone to complement that sparkle. Sterling silver with quartz druzy, $125+hst.
 And for the splurge – nobody will miss this bad boy on your hand! It’s a showstopper for sure, with one gorgeous freeform centre stone, and square accent stones on either side. Sterling silver with quartz druzy, $590+hst.

And here they are side by side. The big stone on the left photographed quite dark, but it is much lighter in person – you really must come in to take a look yourself!

Enjoy the sun, but don’t forget the spf! xx

Celebrate Canada 150 with One-of-a-Kind Canadian Jewellery!

Oh Canada!  You have never looked so good!

Custom Sterling Silver Maple Leaf Brooch by atelier J-Micheline Roi

This July 1 Canada celebrates the 150 anniversary of our confederation. And there has never been a better time to support our Canadian goldsmiths and designers. We all get inspiration from where we live and what we see unfold around us.

One such designer is Anneke van Bommel of Touch the Dutch. Anneke’s work is original, beautifully made, and the design of her Canadiana line is executed with a small wink to all of us in Canada.

 
Anneke van Bommel’s iconic Canadian beaver brooch.

Anneke van Bommel’s sound advice given by Canada’s very own Mounties

My favourite of all Anneke’s Canadiana pieces harkens back to when Trudeau was our Prime Minister–Pierre Elliot, the father of Justin!  It perfectly encapsulates the Canadian attitude of following tradition yet moving forward into the future and features Trudeau’s iconic pirouette behind the back of Queen Elizabeth II.

Artist Spotlight on Gillian!

Happy
Sunday readers!
We are
celebrating our tenth anniversary this year—a milestone for Gillian E. Batcher,
who is not only the owner operator of Jewel Envy but also, a woman, a daughter,
a friend, a goldsmith a wife, and a mother.
She opened
her first jewellery studio ten years ago in
downtown Toronto.

She has a
degree in Psychology, and graduated with distinction, from The University of
Western Ontario. After completing her degree, she went to George Brown College
and completed the three-year Jewellery Arts program, graduating with
distinction.
Next she went
to Florence, Italy to study an intensive jewellery course, focusing on textile
techniques in precious metals, and she participated in a three-year residency in
the metal studio crafts studio at Harbourfront Centre, Toronto.
Gillian
has been running with great success her business, congratulations to her, to
her husband Matthew, and her gorgeous baby Everly, for these ten years of
growth in this incredible, competitive and difficult career.
We, the
resident goldsmiths at Jewel Envy are very proud of being part of this achievement.
Helena (resident
goldsmiths)



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