Lately, I’ve been loving the work of Kim Buck, a goldsmith and conceptual artist based in Denmark. His award-winning work playfully raised questions about the fundamental basis of jewellery and cultural values, and I find his mix of traditional gold smithing techniques and modern CAD technology to create wearable intricate rings, necklaces, pendants, brooches and objects really unique!
Buck’s work has been shown in various solo and group exhibitions and is displayed in museum collections around the world. He has owned his studio and gallery in Copenhagen since 1989.
Here are some rings from his ‘Puffed Up’ series (2011-2016), which I find especially amazing:
Welded from thin gold sheets, these rings have been literally ‘puffed up’ with hot air! To illustrating the risk of inflating ones ego, these rings will eventually wear and deflate with wear; this collapse will result in a series of uniquely formed signet rings, each one corresponding to its wearer.
We’ve had a busy day here at Jewel Envy. I’ve been chatting with people all day, took in some repairs, filled out some custom order forms, and some sales. I managed to snap and find some pics to reflect my day – Alexis
Managed to snap a pic of Edna Milevsky’s new Magen Pendant – one of four colour ways now available! Those beautiful rhodolite garnets match my nails so well <3Arranged the”vines” I’ve been creating, but didn’t get a moment to work on them! SOooooooOOoo many repair intakes today! I chatted over some incredible modernist Ruth Berridge jewellery a customer brought us that needs some conversions and tweaks – including some unfinished jewellery pieces that look like the above ring.
To truly understand why Jewel Envy would be selling a candle made by a goldsmith you need to know more about Eric and so below is a tiny glimpse into his life story.
A childhood passion for collecting semi-precious gemstones, which included sparkly rocks found in gardens, led Petersen to a career and love affair with diamonds and fine jewellery. What’s interesting is that while doing research for his first major project while studying Jewellery Arts at George Brown College, he was surprised to find himself at the same gem show his mother had taken him to a decade prior, where she had bought him a skull pendant with a rose in its mouth, a symbolic gift that he keeps close to his heart. His older sister Lorinda, purchased some faceted peridot beads, the birthstone for August, and glued them into the eyes. And so began an extraordinary journey of love and loss, hopes and dreams and everything in between…
On his birthday in August of 2005, shortly before beginning school for jewellery studies, Petersen learned of his mother’s acute myeloid leukemia diagnosis. While in school and juggling long days and a long commute, he would visit his mother, Dorothy, in the hospital while she underwent chemotherapy treatments. He once brightened her day by hammering a bent ring of hers round again, and to her it was like he had worked magic. “How did you do that?!,” Dorothy exclaimed astonishingly.
The first piece of ‘real’ jewellery that Petersen made was a silver and copper pendant with a purple bezel-set cabochon amethyst. It was his mother’s favourite gemstone and one she had personally selected for the piece. Unfortunately she did not get to see it completed. Her battle with leukemia was short-lived and on March 14th 2006, she died surrounded by her loved ones. Fortunately, due to a school strike and lockout, Petersen was able to be there by her side. Blessings in disguise.
After this relatively sudden and unexpected loss, Petersen opted to drop out of college, but he was encouraged by George Brown’s faculty to stay and continue his studies. It’s a good thing he did, and he’s forever grateful for the unwavering support and encouragement of his professor’s.
Included on the Dean’s Honour List and recipient of the Louis Frankian Diamond Jewellers award, Petersen graduated from Jewellery Arts, School of Fashion Studies at George Brown College and would go on to win two awards for Best In Design Innovation, as well as an Honorable Mention for his piece in the I.M.A.G.I.N.E. Peace Now exhibition, an initiative founded by American metal artist Boris Bally, to bring awareness to gun violence so prevalent in North America (an issue that Eric unfortunately has personal experience with). The exhibition travelled to galleries across the United States and Eric’s piece titled, ‘Pieces of Youth’, a hat-turned-handbag, garnered him praise from artist, activist and Obey Clothing company founder, Shepard Fairey, who served as a juror for the exhibition.
In 2009, shortly after returning from a month in Australia, Eric received a call that his friend and future business partner Adam, had been killed in a freak motorcycle accident. By this time Eric was no stranger to loss, he had recently buried a few murdered friends, however this was the tipping point that pushed him to the edge of his dreams. Petersen quit his job as a Dental Technician where he had been making dental appliances in a laboratory, he liquidated what assets he had, bought tools and materials looked towards his jewellery future. “The way I saw it was it was now up to me to realize the dreams that Adam and I both shared,” says Petersen.
In addition to his private jewellery practice, Petersen has given lectures and presentations to schools within the TDSB, DDSB, George Brown College and the 2013 annual SNAG (Society of North American Goldsmiths) conference. His work has also supported charitable organizations such as Music Not Mischief, The Assaulted Women’s Helpline, The Canadian Cancer Society and the George Brown College Foundation.
Over the next few months we are featuring something unusual for sale on our website. Unusual because of how it’s made, where it’s made and what it is.
We’re calling it a collaboration or a feature but really it’s more a signal of mutual admiration for a like minded approach to continuing to develop as makers throughout a career.
With this mini intro I think you can understand how admiration works at Jewel Envy, we turn it into support for each other! And with that in mind I would like to introduce all of you to Eric Petersen the luxury designer behind Campfire Kiss. Over the next few weeks we will share his story in snippets and through these mini posts you will learn how a custom jewellery studio chose to support and sell these amazing candles available for purchase on our website and in store pick up through this link.
And now Eric’s short biography will be the best way for everyone to start to get to know him!
A formally trained goldsmith and graduate of Jewellery Arts, School of Fashion Studies at George Brown College, Eric Petersen is the lead Designer and Director of ERIC PETERSEN, a bespoke designer brand specializing in fine jewellery and accessories.
Born and raised in West Hill, Scarborough, one of Toronto’s grittier neighbourhoods, Petersen is an award winning designer-jeweller, inspired by life events, world travels, and cultures; as well as song lyrics, quotes and other people’s stories.
With skateboarding being his first true love, Petersen is a voracious reader, Scotch whisky enthusiast, vintage wine lover (although mildly allergic), nature lover and an always curious cat-dad.
I don’t know about you, but the changing of the seasons definitely seems to be upon us! As usual, there are lots of happenings in the studio, and we are starting to turn our minds towards making for the holidays. If you’re feeling the itch to do something hands on, Gillian announced the dates for our last session of eight week classes in the newsletter today, and there are still some one and two-day workshops that are taking bookings.
Some recent class finishes
You can find information about the classes and schedules on the main website. You can also always come in and ask, email or phone to talk to someone for more information about our exciting class offerings!
Don’t forget that we still require proof of vaccination (that’s 2 doses and at least 1 booster) to take part. While we all wish covid had disappeared, sadly it hasn’t, so this policy is in place to protect our member goldsmiths, as well as everyone taking part in the classes. We appreciate your understanding and support of our policies.
These sterling silver oak leaf studs are so comfortable to wear and go with everything. Come into the store to see the other leafy pieces by Aurora of Handmade Revolution.
Faceted signet ring by Karyn Houston of Sticks vs. StoneM T Bar Necklace with labradorites by Robin Cassady-Cain of House of CassadyPolyp studs by Alexis Kostuk of glaciale goldsmith
Blue is one of my favourite colours, and of all the blue stones, I’m currently enamored of lapis lazuli. One of our resident goldsmiths, Shafiq, has some lovely lapis, which he cuts, shapes and polishes himself, before incorporating it into his jewellery.
Artifacts of lapis have been found that are as old as the 7th century BC, and during the middle ages, it was used ground up to make ultramarine paint pigment, the most expensive of all blue paint hues! The largest source of lapis is Afghanistan, and it yields lovely pyrite (which is gold coloured) included stones, like this example from Shafiq’s collection.
Lapis Lazuli “bird” set in a sterling silver brooch.
What’s your favourite colour of stone? Whatever it is, you’re sure to find some beautiful examples in the studio. Wander in if you’re passing by and see!
In our classes at Jewel Envy we teach several ways to add texture onto metal transforming the surface. Check out some images below for descriptions of what is used to create texture
Hammered textured band rings. The dappled texture on these was created by using a ball peen hammer across the surface. This is close to the final step in creating a ring!
You can learn how to make a band ring in either a one day class, or as the first (of three) projects in our 8 week introductory fabrication; upcoming class dates:
Monday September 26th – 8 WeekIntroductory Fabrication
Saturday October 15th – One DayBand Ring
Cuttlefish castings. The ripples are the natural texture of the cuttlefish. After carving a shape into a cuttlefish bone you pour molten metal into the cavity capturing the unique patterns of the material.
You can learn how to make a cuttlefish casting as the second of three projects in the 8 week casting class; upcoming class:
Tuesday October 18th – 8 Week Casting
Roller printed earrings. For these pieces the texture is added to the metal first using a rolling mill and fabric. After the pieces are shaped and made into their final form.
You can learn how to roller print for the second of three projects in our 8 week introductory fabrication class; upcoming class:
Monday September 26th – 8 WeekIntroductory Fabrication
Visit our website to check our event calendar for dates, browse to see class descriptions, or drop by to see class samples in person.
Please note we are still requiring all class participants to show proof of full vaccination for COVID 19 at or before the start of class unless you have a signed medical exemption. For us this means 2 shots and any boosters that are recommended and available to your age group. Masks are also still required for the duration of the time spent inside Jewel Envy.
Toronto always has unique and exciting events going on through the summer, but we really get excited about the community festivals and fairs that happen in the fall.
This coming weekend (Sept 17th and 18th) marks our neighbourhood’s yearly celebration, the “Roncesvalles Polish Festival”. The organisers have planned a stage for our street, highlighting a tuba quartet, an Elvis impersonator, a pipe and drum band, plus a family DJ party. We are anticipating lots of music and a lot of fun just outside our doors, all weekend.
If you are planning a trip down to check out the festivities, you can be assured that we still require everyone to wear their masks inside Jewel Envy, and we will make sure that you have ample space for your shopping experience before we let in the next customers. If you have a big project you’ll need time to discuss, feel free to book a time this week, so that we can give you all of the time and attention required. We have lots to look at and try on, all made by our in house jewellers!
Whether you come down to Roncy to celebrate with us, or just to eat pierogies and watch some wonderful entertainment, we hope you have a safe, wonderful time.
